Winemaker Glenn Barry is many things but elegant is not one of them. While the Portet wine is all about grace and charm, Barry's uncouth and unkempt Mataro is a brilliant reflection of the winemaker and the variety. The wine is black and brooding, slightly hairy and dishevelled. It makes you think it's been grown in some of the blackest dirt on earth. It's chewy and a little gritty, like eating meat off a bone pulled straight from the fire. It's wild, slightly scary and utterly delicious.